Until recently, many gardeners believed thatgrowing roses in Siberia - this is an empty occupation, requiring a lot of knowledge and hassle. However, in recent years, planting roses has become a mass character, gardeners-experimenters on personal experience have made sure that some varieties are very well tolerated Siberian winters.
Also there was a lot of information ongrowing these beauties in the middle lane, and roses grown in Siberia ripen even better than in warmer regions. However, there are years when the summer rainy, and the second wave of flowering coincides with the period of preparation of the bushes for the winter, for it must be cut all the buds. This need is due to the fact that the seedlings were able to gain strength, the root system is strengthened, and the frost did not affect the plant. In general, to save bushes of roses with the help of winter shelter is half the success. No less important is the observance of the terms when to open roses. After all, under the shelter of delicate flowers can vypret, bend, get sick with fungal diseases.
To preserve roses in winter from freezingtheir root system is bored or sprinkled with humus, a frame made of wooden rails around the bushes, and lapnik or covering material is attached. In winter, snow piles protect the bushes from frosts well, but in the spring, when roses can not be opened yet, under snowdrifts they can deteriorate, it is necessary to make ventilation for the influx of air to the places of shelter, because it is at this time that buds begin to wake up. This must be done on sunny days, when the air temperature has positive values, the snow is slightly raked, but the shelter should not be removed. Depending on the weather (spring can be protracted), from mid-March to mid-April - the best period when you open roses. For this, the snow is completely thrown back, the covering material can be removed for the daytime, and in the evening, if strong frosts are expected, it is obligatory to return to the bushes.
With insignificant minus temperaturesplants cope, and at a mark below minus 8 -10 degrees can freeze. In early April, when it is necessary to tear off the roses, humus, which is poured around the flowers, it is necessary to turn off, so that the root system does not bury. It is necessary to fertilize with mineral fertilizers or infusion of mullein. After removing the cover, the branches must be shortened, in spite of the fact that they have been cut off since the autumn. Blackened shoots should be cut completely to the place where the branch is green, and if they are black to the ground, then it is necessary to cut out completely. It may seem that the bush is dead, but you should not rush to uproot it. To save the plant, it is necessary to dilute the root stimulating agent (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin or others) in the proportions indicated on the package. At least one bucket of the solution should be poured on the bush and not touch at least a month. The root system will first give off weak shoots, and then with the help of fertilizing they will get stronger, but there can be no violent flowering. Now, the main thing is to prepare the bush for the winter, so that next year it will please with the magnificence of its flowers. In general, any experience comes with practice, and if you have never grown roses, get to the start the most not whimsical variety, consult with the seller, find out the specifics of its cultivation, ask when to open roses, and then on your own experience will give these recommendations to others newcomers.
