Pattern of a man's shirt: construction of the base, models

Shirt is a universal kind of men's clothing. It is difficult to imagine a man who does not have at least one shirt. Classic, sports, casual, for a festive exit or a stylish party, the shirt goes to everyone without exception.

First shirts

Men's shirts appeared in the era of antiquity. White color, the most common, symbolized the purity of the soul and body, so the shirt was an obligatory attribute and was only white. Over time, she was transformed from a shirt into a casual dress, which she put on her body. Even for the nobility, for a long time, the shirt was considered a valuable property, was inherited and carefully kept. And in Russia embroideries were handed down from generation to generation - embroidered in the "weak spots" of the shirt carried the strength of the genus and protection against evil spirits.

Types of shirts

Men's shirts, apart from dividing by style, stillhave many differences in cut. So, there are shirts with a collar stand, with a turndown collar, fitted and classic. Slim-fit shirts (models for athletic builders) allow them to be worn without a jacket, under a cardigan or simply with trousers or jeans.

Even cuffs are on shirts under buttons or under cufflinks, French.

Clasps on shirts are also different:

• on the bar - when the shirt is framed by a separate decorative strip of fabric, on which buttons are sewn;
• secret - buttons are sewn on a secret lath, and the hinges are hidden inside the fabric;
• normal - the bar is folded and the buttons are sewn onto the fabric.

Sewing of shirts

It is believed that it is difficult to please only women. However, many men are very demanding in the choice of shirts. It is necessary to like everything - the collar model, buttons, seams, cut. You can please a strong half and sew a shirt yourself.

Work begins with the choice of fabric. Depending on the style of the shirt, the print on the fabric and the quality of the fabric should be selected.

For a classic shirt, expensive,smooth fabrics - cotton, linen, silk, satin. Color preferences are calm, let's say a small picture. But for sports-style shirts, coarse and dense fabrics are appropriate - flannel, fleece, jeans, viscose.

The construction of the pattern of a man's shirt begins with the removal of the measurements.

Removing measurements

In order to make the measurements correctly, the centimeter should pass through the tailoring lines - special directions, the removal of measurements on which will ensure the correct parameters of the product.

OSH - neck girth. The measure is removed at the bottom of the collar. For freedom of fit and proper fit, a finger is laid between the tape and neck.

OG - chest girth. Merka should be removed in the widest part of the chest and back. In this case, the value should be maximum.

OT - girth of the waist. The waistline is the narrowest point between the ribs and the pelvic line. For convenience, a man puts his hands on his belt. In the most comfortable place for him and takes a stand. A ribbon is tied at the waist line, it will be useful for further measurements.

OB - girth of the hips. Men's shirts are longer than women's. For correct fit, the girth of the hips is measured.

SHG - chest width. Under the arms for convenience, a man can pinch two rulers. A centimeter measures the distance from point to point in those places where the rulers go under the mouse.

ШС - width of the back. Measured in the same position from the back.

ШП - shoulder width. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck until the end of the shoulder line.

DR - the length of the sleeve. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the first phalanx of the thumb.

OP - girth of the hand. The circumference of the biceps is measured.

OZ - wrist circumference. The wrist circumference is measured.

DIZD - the length of the product. It is measured from the protruding vertebra in the cervical region to the gluteal fold, if the shirt is supposed to be a classic cut.

Accident - the length of the waist is transferred. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the ribbon at the waist across the chest.

DTS - waist length of back. Similar measurement on the back.

Sleeve Pattern

The most laborious part in the construction of the shirt pattern is the formation of the correct pattern of the sleeve. The pattern of a man's shirt with a long sleeve is built according to the standard scheme.

The sleeve of the shirt differs from the actual depth of the pellet. The wider the shape, the smaller the height of the pellet will be.

For the construction, the parameters of the measures taken in advance are used.

On a sheet of A3 or A2 format (the main thing is to fit the sleeve, you can even use a newspaper) two perpendicular lines are being built. Point O1 is marked in the center.

The height of the soft-shaped pellet for the classical shirt is about 8-10 cm. From the point O1, an interval of 10 cm is laid up, the point O2 is marked.

To the right of O1 and to the left are laid off segments equal to the half-grip of the hand = OP / 2. The points P1 and P2 are marked.

A smooth line connects the points O2 and P1 and P2.

Down from O2 the length of the sleeve is postponed. The point M is marked.

The width of the sleeve is the line perpendicular to the segment O2M. M1M2 = Width of the wrist. From M to the right side and to the left half of the circumference of the wrist is deposited. The lines are connected.

It turns out a pattern of a sleeve of a man's shirt. Ready sleeve sits on the armhole.

In order to avoid mistakes, the cut out parts of the product are first punctured with pins on the mannequin or man, the forms are corrected, and only then they are sewn together.

Cuff

To complete the sleeve, a cuff pattern is constructed. For this, rectangles are drawn, one of which ends at an acute angle.

The classic cuff on the button is the same width as the wrist, and the height can depend on the owner's preferences - the height is from 5 to 7 cm.

Shirt-kosovorotka

A distinctive feature of the kosovorotki is that the incision for the collar is not in the middle, but on the side.

The pattern of a man's shirta set of rectangles. To draw a pattern, draw a large rectangle with a height equal to the length of the product, and a width equal to the girth of the chest. The second rectangle is the back, constructed in a similar way, according to the parameters of the back.

Next to the large rectangle is attached a sleeve - the length is equal to the length of the sleeve, width - to the width of the arm. These parts are symmetrical both on the back and on the front of the product.

For freedom of fit, a lateral small rectangle equal to the width of the side is constructed. Measured in centimeters width in the place where the ruler is clamped.

In the front part of the kosovorotki left or right is a cut for the gate. It is lined with braid or decorative material. The length of the incision is equal to the POG - half-engagement of the head.

Decoration of shirts

Men's shirts can be decorated in different ways. Concert shirts embroider with beads, stones, paillettes. For the classic cut, the original cuffs or collar are appropriate. Buttons are sewn as classic, in the tone of the shirt, and unusual, colored or original shapes. The hinges are lined with a colored thread to contrast with the main fabric. As an additional element, the pattern of a male shirt may contain a breast pocket.

The best decoration for a man's shirt is a properly constructed pattern. Male shirts or kosovorotki - any product type depends on the quality of tailoring and processing.

For example, correctly matched to the type of face collar can visually emphasize the cheekbones or make the chin more manly.