How correctly to make a connection spike-groove?
For a long time in carpentry and carpentrya spline-groove joint is used. Ancient architects, using this method, managed to create unique wooden buildings without a single nail or a screw. And although the most diverse hardware is now quite accessible, the articulation of individual parts of various designs by this method has not only not lost its relevance, but also finds wide application in modern products and materials.
The principle of connection and its varieties
According to the design all connections spike- The groove is made according to one principle: a ledge is made on one part, and a groove is made on the second. By configuration and size, they are exactly the same. With the tight junction of these two parts, a robust process unit is obtained. When building houses, such a connection prevents the shift of one part of the structure relative to the other; when manufacturing furniture, it significantly increases the area on which the glue is applied, thereby providing additional strength of the product.
According to the geometric shape of the ledges and grooves, these joints are divided into two main types:
- rectangular section (sometimes with rounded ribs of thorns and grooves);
- In the form of a trapezoid (also called "swallowtail").
By the number of thorns and grooves that need to be made for one joint of parts, these connections are divided into:
- single-shot;
- multi-shot.
Important! Regardless of the number and geometric shape of the protrusions and grooves, they must be made only parallel to the wood fibers.
Application area
The spike-groove joint has found application in manyspheres of our daily life. For example, when arranging the floors of premises, such a principle is joined by such usual coatings as laminate, parquet, parquet board, ordinary floor board, chipboard, fiberboard or MDF boards.
Wood as one of the most environmentally friendlymaterials, used to make a variety of furniture (from a simple kitchen stool to a designer suite for a living room or dining room), roll-up lamellar curtains, blinds and much more. And all these products are mainly made with the use of the connection of the spike-groove.
In the construction of wooden frame structures, houses from the timber, in the arrangement of the beam and truss structure of the ceiling and roof, it is also necessary to arrange the protrusions and recesses.
Join the timber
The tongue-and-groove groove in the joint of the bar is used both forarrangement of angular structures from wood, and for longitudinal alignment of individual pieces. Depending on the size of the section and the expected loads, the geometry and number of protrusions and lugs are chosen. For example, when building wooden houses, a single-shot connection is mainly used. And to increase the length of small bars with a small cross-section, using a glue, a multi-shot method is used.
Connection of boards
Virtually all owners of suburbanreal estate for a long time like material such as lining, as a result of which you get an absolutely flat vertical surface. Shep - groove connection of boards is used for arrangement of floors, interior finishing of the house, and also for external covering of the structure (naturally with antiseptic coating).
The protrusions are tightly fixed in the recesses of neighboringboards, which prevents their displacement relative to each other. With the arrangement of the floors, the tight jointing of the planks together prevents their displacement in the vertical plane (the floor is flat) and significantly increases the heat-saving properties of the coating (there are simply no crevices between the boards).
Using a manual electric router
Arrangement of splint-groove joints with a milling cutterminimizes labor and significantly reduces the time for the production of carpentry. Of course, this useful tool will not help when building a house, for example, from a bar with a cross-section of 150 x 150 mm, because there are no cutters of this size for a manual milling machine, and the capacity of this unit will not be enough to install them. But if you want to build your own furniture, small window frames or door frames, then such a tool is simply necessary. Depending on the size of the parts to be joined and the geometric configuration of the connection, you get the required milling cutter, and maybe two (one for cutting the groove, the other for making the stud). The adjusting devices of the milling tool, as well as the guide bearings (usually included in the set of such cutters) will help to create protrusions and grooves that match exactly in size and shape.
Tools and accessories for self-production
If you need to make a piecea wooden product, it is economically unprofitable to purchase an expensive electric router. Most likely, everyone in the farm has a necessary set of tools, and if they have to buy, then quite a bit. In addition, additionally purchased devices in the future can be useful for the production of small repairs (for example, repairing wooden furniture). In order to make a stud-groove joint with your own hands using only the usual hand tools, you will need:
- a hacksaw on wood (with small teeth);
- joiner's thicknesser (a special device for marking) or a common construction square;
- Ruler and pencil;
- chisel on wood.
Self-made corner connection
As an example, consider how to dothe connection of the spike-groove of two bars of the same cross-section at a right angle with the help of improvised tools. Let's say you need to connect bars measuring 60 x 60 mm (they may well be suitable for making window frames of a summer house).
Thickness of the projection with a single-shot connection (inaccording to the recommendations of the carpentry manuals) should be ⅓ ÷ ⅜ of the thickness of the bar (in your case it will be 20 mm). The length of the stud will be equal to the thickness of the bar (60 mm). The dimensions of the notch must correspond to the dimensions of the stud, so that it engages with effort into the eyelet.
Attention! Spikes must be fitted on vertical parts of the wooden structure, and grooves - on the horizontal.
The algorithm for performing the work is quite simple:
- First, we mark out the future protrusions andeyelets. If you treat this process without due attention, then the manufactured spikes and grooves may not coincide with each other in size or interposition. There is also a danger that they will not fit into each other. All this will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the connection.
- Using the thicknesser (or gon) at a distance of 60 mm from the end, we apply a line to all four sides of both bars.
- Then on the two opposite sides and on the end we draw two parallel lines at a distance of 20 mm from each other.
- On the lines of marking with a hacksaw, we cut the butt to the transverse line, that is to a depth of 60 mm.
On a note! That the thickness of the cut (approximately equal to the value of the wiring of the cutting blade of the saw blade) did not affect the accuracy of the joint, set the blade of the saw from the outside (with the arrangement of the stud) or with the inner (in the manufacture of the groove).
- On the end of the bar with a ledge, saw off the outer pieces of wood.
- Using a chisel, carefully gouge the inside of the recess.
- We insert the spike into the groove and check the made connection. If necessary, remove the protruding defects with a chisel.
Finally
If you need to self-equip the spike-groove connection of wooden parts, then it's best to practice on scraps of bars.
